Another day of Corpus Christi

One week after the images of Saints and Virgins were paraded around the Plaza in Cuzco, I understood they were to leave the Cathedral where they have been for the past week, and make their way back to their respective churches. Another big eventful day. It certainly was that, but once again, not quite what I had expected.

Didn't want to miss anything, so we arrived fairly early, around mid morning, and discovered the Cathedral doors open, so in we went..... Just as they were being closed. 15 images of Local Saints and Virgins with all their beautiful regalia, on huge stands took up quite a lot of space. Most of the church pews had been removed to allow space, and people milled around everywhere. No photos usually allowed inside, however er cameras flashed everywhere, so we joined in. Sin Flash. The finery was spectacular!

Time to leave. Outside the Cathedral was flanked by a wall of police, both along the exterior wall, and along the steps. Apparently there was a protest going on. University students. We could see the protestors on the opposite side of the street, also flanked on both sides by police.

But everything goes on, and the roadways were taken over by very young students. Possibly kindergarten age. They were gorgeous!! So entertaining. Watched them all.

Still only a small crowd, so we guessed it was to early for the main event, so we wandered over to San Francisco Plaza, where the main food event had been for the past week. Chiriuchu everywhere. Still going on. Every side of this plaza was lined with stalls selling the same food. Not something I really wanted to try, but it was very popular. Interesting combination - guinea pig, chicken, dehydrated meat, corn cake, cheese, chorizo, seaweed and fish roe. Mmmmm PASS

Then on to San Pedro Market, where there were also extra stalls selling food, fruit and local produce, including stalks of sugar cane and coconuts. Bought some cashews, but searched everywhere for coconut flour. Miguel was on a 'mission' for me, asking all likely produce merchants, 'harina de coco?' 'No hay.'

Back to the main plaza, where crowds were continuing to gather and bands started to arrive. Around 3pm, the first stand for a statue emerged from the Cathedral, closely followed by the image of San Antonio Abad, patron saint of San Antonio Abad University, the oldest university in Cusco, founded in 1642. Wow.

Statues seem to remain stationary for ages, then move short distances. But to be honest, they must be incredibly heavy, require coordinated effort of dozens of people, and must be quite challenging negotiating steps, steep declines and extremely slippery paved roads. Stellar effort by all. I think it takes about an hour and a half to complete the plaza circuit. So hours for all 15 of them.

The previous week, all statues completed the circuit, then up some stairs and back into the cathedral. But today was a different tradition. The statue of San Antonio Abad remained near the end of the circuit, directly in front of us on Norton's balcony.

The statue of San Jeronimo, was carried up level, and then manoeuvred backwards into a side street, and as with all, it was accompanied with its own band playing lively music. The first statue was then manoeuvred to face San Jerunimo. A stand off, it seemed.

San Antonio's band then started playing much slower, strong, purposeful music, and the statue was carried slowly closer to San Jeronimo, before dipping slightly as in a bow, and then retreating. Hugely significant and respected by all. It happened 3 times, before the group carrying San Jeronimo repeated the process, accompanied by their band and their particular, similarly slow music. The two groups were paying respects to each other. Church elders from respective groups shook hands, posed for photos, before the statue of San Antonio continued on up the stairs..... And back into the cathedral. And I thought this was the day they were to come out of the cathedral, and return to their churches. Oh no.... That happens tomorrow, with each statue accompanied by many dancing troupes and bands. So another big day in the plaza tomorrow, or I could wait on the main avenue near our house, because San Jeronimo and San Sebastián will both be carried along this road. Wow. Such a decision.

Apparently, San Jeronimo is the oldest Saint, so his statue is held in that position for the entire parade so that all other groups can pay their respects. Such a fascinating tradition to watch.

The parade went on for hours, with a setting sun and magnificent Cusco skyline with crystal clear skies. A really warm day, but certainly knew it was winter (or just Cusco) when the sun disappeared.

What a magnificent day! Living the dream.

More pictures here.

 

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