Back to Peru 2015

Monday, June 15, 2015

A unique bridge experience

You know those times when you are about to have a new experience, you start forming images of what it might be like. Then the real thing goes far beyond your wildest imagination. This was one of those times.

A visit to Q’eswachaka Bridge was just that. What an amazing, incredible, fantastic day. And we only experienced a small part of it.

This bridge is entirely hand made and reconstructed each year using Traditional methods passed down over 500 years, and using only native grass found on the mountainsides ( also used to feed llamas). The work is done by members of 4 nearby communities, with each family required to make a length of rope measuring 40 armspans. Over three days they work together to construct thick strong cables from these ropes, construct the mat flooring, and weave ropes along the sides. Can't wait for our friend, Oso, who was there throughout the 3 days, to post his photos and explanations of the bridge building and the traditions that surround it. Will share his link here too.

Can't help but admire and respect the work that goes into this bridge, and the tradition that keeps it going each year for more than 500years.

The drive out there was also spectacular. Really grateful to Zac's friends, Dougie and Edilma ( and Edilma's dad) for arranging transport for us, and making it all possible.

Lex drove Dougie's car, and not being a fan of left hand drive cars, or driving on the opposite side of the road was only part of the challenge. The trip took about 3.5 hours, with no-one having been there before, and only a vague, small Google map, directions were sought frequently from locals. Who would have expected that Sunday to be a big event in so many communities. We ended up driving a loop, in convoy, through a special market event in one community (very narrow streets full of markets stalls, patrons, and oncoming traffic), only to find that today that route was not possible. We needed to go through the agricultural show grounds, full of livestock. Interestingly Lex missed the route on the return trip, and going right through the market which was getting ready to close for the day. I can only imagine the scene of Oso walking along beside the car, lifting shade structures up so they could pass. ( I was in the other car)

Another community was preparing for their festival later in the day. (Something to keep in mind, and avoid, on our return trip. Tick!!

Also had a couple of roadside stops... Police check - Ah, Australian. Ok. And a local security tax on entry to the site.

The road wound through the valley out of Cusco, then up to a peak of 4000m, across some high plains, and finally down a series of hairpin bends on narrow roads to the Apurimac River, and the bridge. ( that's the simplified version, but the views are simply magnificent. )

From our arrival point we could see the bridge, the queues of people waiting to walk across it, the festival going on further up the mountainside, and the strings of cars, buses and trucks parked along he narrow roadway. Finding a parking spot was not going to be easy.

Some of the group noted that the queue was shorter from this side of the gorge, so opted to cross from this point, while the rest of us took the cars over.

Parking was very limited, and not necessarily easy or 'traditional'. But it was a space, which thankfully, Later Dougie was able to get us out of, and turn around with an excellent 16 point turn. Super effort.

No, I did not cross the bridge. I admit my limitations, and it was not something I needed to do. I was happy to see it, watch others cross, and take photos.

But I did have an interesting exchange with some of the locals. Btw - this event is really a local indigenous event. There may have been some tourists there, but they certainly would have been a minority. So as we walked down to the bridge, we passed a group of 4 girls in traditional garments. One of them said, 'photo, photo'. And thinking they wanted me to take their photo and pay as is the custom here in Cusco, I explained that I didn't have a camera with me. Thier gestures indicated they wanted a photo with their camera, of me ( the odd one out, white lady) with them. What a turn around. We continued our conversations, all jumbled - me thinking one said she was learning English, and one of our group explaining to me that she wanted to learn English from me. It was a lot of fun.

The rest of the group made it across the bridge, and back.

We wandered up to see the festivities. A stage, musicians, dance groups ( understood later there was a dance competition), market stalls, food, drink, and spectators everywhere, even on the high hillsides. A truely local crowd.

Such a privilege.

Sunday, June 14, 2015

Saints and Virgins return home

I thought this was to happen the previous day, but this was to be an even bigger day of pageantry where all the statues would be carried from the Cathedral back to their respective churches, accompanied by numerous dancing troupes and bands. One had come from a small 'pueblo' 12km away, no an easy feat with this mountainous terrain.

Anyone in the plaza would be in for a full day spectacle. Since 2 of the statues came from churches further out from the centre than where we are living, we would be able to see the procession from very close to. Home. Decision made. The processions would have to make their way through a series of narrow streets near the centre before getting to the main avenue Av de la Cultura. We live approximately 4-5km from the centre, and San Sebastián is about 1 km further, and San Jeronimo, possible another 5-6km further still. Quite long distances to walk, dance, carry a heavy statue, or carry and play a musical instrument. (I still get breathless bending down to tie shoe laces, and we've been here 2 weeks.). At least it is downhill!

About mid-morning, band music could be heard. Our signal to grab the camera, and head out.

I really must try to find out more about the different dance troupes. There must be a story involved. Different troupes possible represent different regions, or possibly different cultural groups throughout history. Groups include Spaniards who seem to be represented by long nose masks, Incas, jungle people.

The statue of San Jeronimo appeared in the middle of the procession, flanked by dignitaries and patrons from the church as well as numerous members of their congregation. So many people, families, and small children, and such joy and happiness. And they still had a long way to go.

There seemed to be 2 or 3 relief groups of bearers for the statue, and although they would have have several rest stops, where the statue would be placed on the stand for short periods. The morning parade flowed almost continuously for almost 2 hours. This incredible disruption to traffic would have occurred in several directions across the city as all 15 statues made their way back to their respective churches. The disruption along Av de la Cultura, which is a very busy 6 lane road, would have been further exacerbated by a protest outside the university, where students have totally blocked 3 lanes of the road outside the uni for several days. But street parades and protests seem to be part of life here, and traffic goes around, or though as some drivers did.

The kids are gorgeous.

Just gotta love their energy and happiness. It's infectious. Love a great parade! These band guys amaze me... Not only walking long distances, carrying and playing this huge instrument, they could also manage a few dance moves. Yep, definitely envious!

Later in the afternoon the procession for San Sebastián passed along. I'm not sure whether it was because this group had possible had a longer wait before their turn to leave the central plaza, or that they were almost at their destination with only about 1 km to go, but hey we're definitely in party mode.

This procession seemed to take longer than the morning one, with greater intervals between groups, and more rest stops. We could see groups stopped, resting on the sides of the road, conveniently outside a local 'deposito' .... bottle shop. Liquid supplies were also transported along with the groups, by various methods.

Early in the evening, we went into the centre, still experiencing traffic disruptions and delays around the university, to find the statue of San Blas, just making its way out of the plaza. San Blas church is probably the closest to the plaza, and therefore the last to leave. Sometime later, after dining at a restaurant in San Blas district we managed to see the statue entering the church of San Blas, after what must have been a short, but steep and difficult climb.

What a day. So many more photos here

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Another day of Corpus Christi

One week after the images of Saints and Virgins were paraded around the Plaza in Cuzco, I understood they were to leave the Cathedral where they have been for the past week, and make their way back to their respective churches. Another big eventful day. It certainly was that, but once again, not quite what I had expected.

Didn't want to miss anything, so we arrived fairly early, around mid morning, and discovered the Cathedral doors open, so in we went..... Just as they were being closed. 15 images of Local Saints and Virgins with all their beautiful regalia, on huge stands took up quite a lot of space. Most of the church pews had been removed to allow space, and people milled around everywhere. No photos usually allowed inside, however er cameras flashed everywhere, so we joined in. Sin Flash. The finery was spectacular!

Time to leave. Outside the Cathedral was flanked by a wall of police, both along the exterior wall, and along the steps. Apparently there was a protest going on. University students. We could see the protestors on the opposite side of the street, also flanked on both sides by police.

But everything goes on, and the roadways were taken over by very young students. Possibly kindergarten age. They were gorgeous!! So entertaining. Watched them all.

Still only a small crowd, so we guessed it was to early for the main event, so we wandered over to San Francisco Plaza, where the main food event had been for the past week. Chiriuchu everywhere. Still going on. Every side of this plaza was lined with stalls selling the same food. Not something I really wanted to try, but it was very popular. Interesting combination - guinea pig, chicken, dehydrated meat, corn cake, cheese, chorizo, seaweed and fish roe. Mmmmm PASS

Then on to San Pedro Market, where there were also extra stalls selling food, fruit and local produce, including stalks of sugar cane and coconuts. Bought some cashews, but searched everywhere for coconut flour. Miguel was on a 'mission' for me, asking all likely produce merchants, 'harina de coco?' 'No hay.'

Back to the main plaza, where crowds were continuing to gather and bands started to arrive. Around 3pm, the first stand for a statue emerged from the Cathedral, closely followed by the image of San Antonio Abad, patron saint of San Antonio Abad University, the oldest university in Cusco, founded in 1642. Wow.

Statues seem to remain stationary for ages, then move short distances. But to be honest, they must be incredibly heavy, require coordinated effort of dozens of people, and must be quite challenging negotiating steps, steep declines and extremely slippery paved roads. Stellar effort by all. I think it takes about an hour and a half to complete the plaza circuit. So hours for all 15 of them.

The previous week, all statues completed the circuit, then up some stairs and back into the cathedral. But today was a different tradition. The statue of San Antonio Abad remained near the end of the circuit, directly in front of us on Norton's balcony.

The statue of San Jeronimo, was carried up level, and then manoeuvred backwards into a side street, and as with all, it was accompanied with its own band playing lively music. The first statue was then manoeuvred to face San Jerunimo. A stand off, it seemed.

San Antonio's band then started playing much slower, strong, purposeful music, and the statue was carried slowly closer to San Jeronimo, before dipping slightly as in a bow, and then retreating. Hugely significant and respected by all. It happened 3 times, before the group carrying San Jeronimo repeated the process, accompanied by their band and their particular, similarly slow music. The two groups were paying respects to each other. Church elders from respective groups shook hands, posed for photos, before the statue of San Antonio continued on up the stairs..... And back into the cathedral. And I thought this was the day they were to come out of the cathedral, and return to their churches. Oh no.... That happens tomorrow, with each statue accompanied by many dancing troupes and bands. So another big day in the plaza tomorrow, or I could wait on the main avenue near our house, because San Jeronimo and San Sebastián will both be carried along this road. Wow. Such a decision.

Apparently, San Jeronimo is the oldest Saint, so his statue is held in that position for the entire parade so that all other groups can pay their respects. Such a fascinating tradition to watch.

The parade went on for hours, with a setting sun and magnificent Cusco skyline with crystal clear skies. A really warm day, but certainly knew it was winter (or just Cusco) when the sun disappeared.

What a magnificent day! Living the dream.

More pictures here.

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Thursday, June 11, 2015

2015 Corpus Christi Celebrations

June is certainly the time for festivals in Cusco, and it kicks off with Corpus Christi. Apparently no other place celebrates this festival like Cusco.

60 days after Easter Sunday, main celebrations take place, although much has already happened.

On the days prior, images of saints and virgins are taken from their respective churches to the main cathedral. On the day, people start to gather early in the morning. The steps in front of the cathedral are decorated with hundreds of flowers, and all 15 saints or virgins from surrounding churches are on display outside the cathedral. Apparently all the images are given new finely embroidered robes each year. Really spectacular. The alter is placed outside the cathedral for an outdoor mass.

Throughout the morning, the crowd continues to grow.

Following mass, a silver carriage is carried around the plaza. When it returns to the cathedral, it's the turn of the saints and virgins to be carried around the plaza, followed by bands, dancing troupes and believers. Most are extremely heavy, and obviously an enormous privilege to be one of the bearers, or even one of the young bearers of the stand which is used to support the image. And from a spectator's viewpoint, it is really quite a spectacle which takes all afternoon. Each ones takes ages.... and there are 15 of them.

Throughout the day, vendors are walking through the crowd selling all sorts of things, the usual food, ice creams, jellies, as well as hats, selfie sticks and several types of stools. Definitely preparing for a l.o.n.g day.

After the procession, parties erupted in streets and plazas nearby with traditional food, Chiriuchu, which is only available during this particular festival. Food plates consisting of roast guinea pig garnished with toasted corn, pork, chicken and seafood like seaweed and fish roe, and normally washed down with Cusqueña beer or the local home brew, chicha.

We spent much of the day in the top vista spot, Norton's balcony, but left as these gatherings got underway.

Apparently the Incan festival celebrated around a similar time when work in the fields was finished and prayers were offered up to the sun god, included parading their Inca mummies around the main plaza. Now both traditions become one.